Truffles 101
One of the world’s culinary delicacies.

What is a Truffle?

“Truffle (truf'l) A subterranean, edible ascomycetous fungi of the genus Tuber. Found anywhere from 2 to 15 inches below the ground, usually in a circular formation about 4 to 5 feet from the base of an oak or hazelnut tree. A number of varieties exist. shape and colour of the fungi…” - Random House Dictionary

Truffles 101

The mysterious truffle, venerated among the world’s culinary delicacies, is actually part of the reproductive structure of various fungi.

Research on truffle cultivation began in the mid 1800's and eventually led to the discovery of ectomycorrhizal (fungi that grow on the external surface of tree roots) in 1885. It was not until the late 1970's that truffles were harvested in French and Italian truffle orchards (truffières) that had been established with artificially inoculated seedlings. Despite this success, the majority of truffle species are still collected from natural areas rather than from artificial truffières. The truffle species most commonly and successfully cultivated is (T. melanosporum) Tuber melanosporum, the famous "French" or Périgord Black truffle. Many tree species can host truffles, but those most frequently used commercially are Hazelnut (T. corylus) , Oaks (T. quercus) and Hornbeam (T. carpinus betulus).

T. melanosporum production in artificially established orchards seldom exceed 40 kg/ha but there are instances of yields greater than 100 kg/ha. In Europe, wholesale prices are around US$300 to US$450 per kg although elsewhere prices can be much higher. In New Zealand, for example, wholesale prices for grade 1 truffles produced out-of-season and shipped to the Northern Hemisphere have reached US$1450 per kg. Truffles can appear as early as three years after planting but full production typically requires 10 to 20 years. Although most truffières outside of Europe are still young, several have begun producing and some show highly promising results. Approximately 300 truffieres are now planted in the United States and we know of up to 20 in Canada.

The first truffieres in the US have recently begun to yield truffles in commercial quantities and many are sure to follow. The first Canadian production began with a small truffiere on South Vancouver Island in 2012. There are as yet no truffieres producing commercial quantities in Canada. The prize for the first confirmed truffle commercially grown in Canada was awarded by the Truffle Association of British Columbia to Bill Stewart of Langley BC.

Due to the nature of the market, it is difficult if not impossible to accurately describe the levels of production and future prices for truffles. What is known is that due to climate pattern change, world production fell dramatically in 2006 mostly due to drought -Italian Whites alone by 75%. Extreme summer temperatures being experienced in Europe during the summer of 2022 are accompanied by increasing water shortages and wildfires which threaten continuing production. Conversely, similar climate pattern changes now being experienced in North America are bringing areas such as southern British Columbia, Southern Ontario and Nova Scotia’s Annapolis Valley further into the range of temperatures required for production.

The largest truffiere in the world and the source for 25% of all Perigord Black Truffle occupies approximately 1250 hectares in northern Spain. There, not a drop of rain fell this summer. Despite production in other areas of the world such as New Zealand and Australia (.5 tonne) coming on line, production continues to fall and experts are now beginning to cooperate in order to save the species. China has begun to meet demand by introducing inferior species such as T. sinensis and T. indicum into the international fresh market where formerly they were used there as animal feed.

Truffle Care and Use

Truffles are alive after they are picked, much like an apple. As such, they respire, again like an apple, and continue to emit the volatile compounds that are the basis of their intense flavour and aroma. This includes the emission of water vapor through the outer skin. If the water vapor condenses on the surface, it will provide an environment for bacteria to grow, which will then work to “rot” the truffle. Conversely, if the truffle dries out, it will cease ripening, and the potential for culinary excellence will be diminished or lost. Thus, while the truffle is fresh and continuing to ripen it must be kept in a humid environment, while the surface remains dry. The traditional method for achieving this is to store them in rice, in a refrigerator. Another method is to keep them in a sealed plastic or more preferably glass container, wrapped in non-bleached paper towel. The truffles should be checked frequently so that any that have begun to decompose or “sweat” can be removed before affecting others. If any water droplets appear in the container, the paper should be changed. The paper serves to wick the moisture away from the truffle inhibiting the growth of bacteria, and allowing the ripening process to continue. During transit or storage, truffles may develop a harmless white mold on their surface. This can easily be removed with a medium toothbrush or mushroom brush and does not affect the qualities of the truffle in any way. The pieces should be handled as little as possible, and preferably with gloved or cleaned hands, to avoid transfer of bacteria supporting skin oils.

Truffles should be stored between 2.5 to 5.5 degrees Celsius, with fresh truffle at the higher temperature, and falling to the lower temperature as they ripen. When fully ripe, the temperature should be just above freezing to prevent or slow any decomposition. Truffles are often stored in rice, hazelnuts, pasta or eggs, which will absorb and be infused with the truffle flavour. Truffles decompose from the outside in, and thus any that have begun to deteriorate can be washed and pared in order to salvage any usable portions before being discarded. At this point, the remaining truffle can be frozen for future use in compound butters, sauces, etc where the truffles appearance is not a factor. Truffles can be frozen at any time. The best practice is to cover them or immerse them in fat such as goose, duck, or other or flavoured fats or butter which will limit the loss of flavour and texture due to drying. They can be retained as such for up to 6 months

For menu planning, there are considered to be series of stages in the truffle’s usefulness, going from a firm flesh with high visual appeal to soft, previously frozen, or finely chopped condition.

Chefs will use their sense of smell and experience in determining the stage of ripeness, and also in the selection of the specific species of truffles. Known for its fruity, pineapple aftertaste, the Oregon Blacks are particularly well suited to desserts, while the more savoury or garlicky Perigord Black and Summer Truffles (T. aestivum) would tend to be better used in savoury dishes. Known for its fruity, pineapple aftertaste, the Oregon Blacks are particularly well suited to desserts, while the more savoury or garlicky Perigord Black and Summer Truffles would tend to be better used in savoury dishes.

Another point of use is the level of heat applied in cooking. The greater the heat, the greater degree of finesse required to capture the subtle truffle flavour. Inexperienced users are advised to begin with using fresh truffles as garnish and in desserts.

Truffle Trees

The Ontario Truffle Association is working with the TABC and NATGA to develop consistent plant health, certified testing and agreements on truffle grading that will enable the North American Truffle industry and consumers. Truffles are ectomycorrhizal fungi and associate with ectomycorrhizal tree species. About 20 tree species are used to grow truffles commercially but Hazelnut (Corylus) and Oak (Quercus) varieties are by far the most common.

Truffle mycorrhizae on the fine root tips of an oak seedling.

Truffles that are either grown commercially or harvested from natural habitats and traded globally include:

Native truffle species:
• Tuber canaliculatum
• T. lyonii

Non-native truffle species:
• T. melanosporum – Perigord Black Truffle
• T. uncinatum - Burgundy Truffle
• T. aestivum - Summer Truffle
• T. magnatum Italian White Truffle
• T. brumale – Black winter truffle
• T. borchii - Bianchettto truffle
• T. oregonense and T. gibbosum - Oregon White Truffles
• T. albidum pico – Winter white truffle
• T. sinensis / T. himalyensis, T. Indicum - Variously referred to as Chinese truffle
• Leucangium carthusianum - Not a true truffle but similar in taste and appearance
• T. dryophilum
• T. puberulm

Partner with the Ontario Truffle Association
Explore the synergies between our two organizations.

Request call:

Contact Us

Ontario & Worldwide:
343-777-4971

Email:
info@ontariotruffleassociation.com

Address:
PO Box 6086 Picton Ontario, K0K 2T0, Canada