Truffles are alive after they are picked, much like an apple. As such, they respire, again like an apple, and continue to emit the volatile compounds that are the basis of their intense flavour and aroma. This includes the emission of water vapor through the outer skin. If the water vapor condenses on the surface, it will provide an environment for bacteria to grow, which will then work to “rot” the truffle. Conversely, if the truffle dries out, it will cease ripening, and the potential for culinary excellence will be diminished or lost. Thus, while the truffle is fresh and continuing to ripen it must be kept in a humid environment, while the surface remains dry. The traditional method for achieving this is to store them in rice, in a refrigerator. Another method is to keep them in a sealed plastic or more preferably glass container, wrapped in non-bleached paper towel. The truffles should be checked frequently so that any that have begun to decompose or “sweat” can be removed before affecting others. If any water droplets appear in the container, the paper should be changed. The paper serves to wick the moisture away from the truffle inhibiting the growth of bacteria, and allowing the ripening process to continue. During transit or storage, truffles may develop a harmless white mold on their surface. This can easily be removed with a medium toothbrush or mushroom brush and does not affect the qualities of the truffle in any way. The pieces should be handled as little as possible, and preferably with gloved or cleaned hands, to avoid transfer of bacteria supporting skin oils.
Truffles should be stored between 2.5 to 5.5 degrees Celsius, with fresh truffle at the higher temperature, and falling to the lower temperature as they ripen. When fully ripe, the temperature should be just above freezing to prevent or slow any decomposition. Truffles are often stored in rice, hazelnuts, pasta or eggs, which will absorb and be infused with the truffle flavour. Truffles decompose from the outside in, and thus any that have begun to deteriorate can be washed and pared in order to salvage any usable portions before being discarded. At this point, the remaining truffle can be frozen for future use in compound butters, sauces, etc where the truffles appearance is not a factor. Truffles can be frozen at any time. The best practice is to cover them or immerse them in fat such as goose, duck, or other or flavoured fats or butter which will limit the loss of flavour and texture due to drying. They can be retained as such for up to 6 months
For menu planning, there are considered to be series of stages in the truffle’s usefulness, going from a firm flesh with high visual appeal to soft, previously frozen, or finely chopped condition.
Chefs will use their sense of smell and experience in determining the stage of ripeness, and also in the selection of the specific species of truffles. Known for its fruity, pineapple aftertaste, the Oregon Blacks are particularly well suited to desserts, while the more savoury or garlicky Perigord Black and Summer Truffles (T. aestivum) would tend to be better used in savoury dishes. Known for its fruity, pineapple aftertaste, the Oregon Blacks are particularly well suited to desserts, while the more savoury or garlicky Perigord Black and Summer Truffles would tend to be better used in savoury dishes.
Another point of use is the level of heat applied in cooking. The greater the heat, the greater degree of finesse required to capture the subtle truffle flavour. Inexperienced users are advised to begin with using fresh truffles as garnish and in desserts.